Five Senses Palate/Sujhey Beisser
Preserving Ramps in a Compound Butter
Every spring, I am very thankful for a colleague’s invitation to harvest ramps on his property. Ramp is an allium that grows wild in the spring, its season is very short and therefore very sought after by chefs and foodies alike. You can find ramps in the farmers market for two or three weeks. The foraging of ramps could be dangerous for the specie, as if done in a manner that is not sustainable or that preserves the future growth of ramps, they could disappear.
Their flavor is like a cross between a green onion and mild garlic. The thing with ramps is that once they come out of the ground, they won’t last long. I have been incorporating fresh ramps in literally every meal I cook. In order to preserve their delicious flavor for later use, I normally make other products that can be refrigerated or frozen like ramp salsa Verde, pickled ramps, ramp pesto, or ramp mayo.
Another favorite way to preserve them is by making a compound butter. While you could use raw garlic to make all kinds of butter, I find the taste of raw ramps quite strong which is why I prefer to cook them to get all the garlicky-oniony flavor that develops in their natural sweetness under heat. It keeps in the refrigerator for weeks and in the freezer for months. You can add it on top of your favorite grilled meats all summer long, add a slab of ramp butter to your vegetables, or simply use it as the fat element to start or end any of your favorite sauces.
Ingredients
2 dozen ramps
1 pound salted butter at room temperature*
1/4 cup lemon juice
Citrus zest (I used lemon & lime)
*I prefer salted butter because, however you can use unsalted butter and adjust the salt level to your preference. If using salted butter, you don’t need to add extra salt.
Method
The butter must be at room temperature. You will need the butter to be soft to be manageable. Prep your ingredients. Separate the bottom of the ramps from the greens by cutting the white and purple parts. Chop the bottoms and slice the greens into thin strips. Keep separate as they will cook at different times. In a large skillet add 4 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the chopped ramps and cook over medium-low heat until softened. 7-10 minutes. Add lemon juice to the skillet and the greens. Cook stirring for about 3 minutes, until the juice has evaporated, and the greens are wilted. Let it cool at room temperature. The mixture must not be hot when mixing with the butter.
In a large bowl add the remaining butter and using a rubber or wooden spatula mix well to obtain a pomade consistency. Fold in the citrus zest. Start adding cooked ramps by the spoonful, use the spatula to bring the ramps into the butter pomade by folding from the outer part of the bowl to the center. Continue adding and folding until all the ramp and butter is incorporated.
You can transfer the butter to a jar and keep it in the refrigerator. To freeze it I recommend wrapping it in a plastic film forming a log and tie the ends. I also use parchment paper on top of the plastic wrap and tie with kitchen twine although you could totally skip this step.
